Tripoli Cafes

regilla-hand

 

A man drinking Regilla (Hookah). With scented Tobacco in a Tripoli café

Life at the Slow Shutter speed.

 

“If you know your position in life, things will go smoothly” said one of my friends who works in a diplomatic mission.

 

“Sadiq (Friend)! Listen to me. I am a few years elder than you.” He continued.

 

Coffee at Green square Tripoli has a charm of it’s own, and reminds me of the colonnaded arcades of Fort of Mumbai,  Connaught Place of Delhi, Malls of Mussoorie and Shimla, street sides at Valletta and Floriana in Malta. There are some common strains with Grenwich and Westminster areas too (remember some nice afternoons spent at the National Gallery and Maritime museum)

 

But the closest similarity is to the sea-side cafes of Benghazi or the Games I played in Giza area of Cairo or the musings at Luxor by the Nile.

 

Over the years, I have made some interesting friends from different countries and one learns from the different cultures and backgrounds.

 

My friend, though working in a European mission, has developed some local tastes. He loves the Libyan Lamb (Kharouf) and drinks camel milk and loves Khus-Khusi.(a local delicacy). But he has retained some of his European taste for wine which he has after his afternoon meals and before his nap.

 

He looks after his car like a baby. “I have to drive to Tunis two times a month.”

 

We spend some time, talking about various issues. He becomes a bit tense at times, when we touch some thorny issues, but then we switch back to discussions on Camel milk and he breathes easier.

 

“The camel milk at Zawia Dahmaani is the best” he tells me how he goes every morning to buy camel milk from there.

 

We part ways. “I have to be back in my mission by 10 pm. But I always make it a point to be back by 9.45 pm so that no one is able to point a finger at me.”

 

One has to know one’s position in life and then things will go on smoothly.

 

…We parted ways after a lovely evening. He pointed out to the moon over the palms as we said goodbye.

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Sabratha

musings-at-sabratha

 

Musings at the ancient Roman city of Sabratha, around 80 km west of Tripoli is a nice way to spend a holiday.

 

The origin of the name of Sabratha has been lost to time, although it is thought to possibly have been a derivation of a Libyan-Berber word meaning ‘grain market’

 

There are some interesting stories associated with this place.

 

One of them is “The Defence of Apuleius

 

In AD 158, a sensational trial rocked Sabratha from its decadent slumber with all the scandal of a modern soap opera. Apuleius was a renowned philosopher who traveled throughout the colonies expounding his theories in Latin and Green to great acclaim. One of Apuleius’ speaking tours took him to Sabratha, where he married Pudentilla, a rich widow many years his senior. The citizens of Sabratha were outraged and the city descended into an unseemly round of scandal mongering. One family , which stood to lose out on the widow’s massive inheritance, formally brought a charge against Apuleius.

 

The accusation?

 

Using his magic powers to win over the widow (there is no record of whether she was given a say).

 

The trial of the decade was presided over by the Roman proconsul Claudio Massimo in the Judicial Basilica. In a captivating oration that lasted three (some say four) days, Apuleius won his freedom. As other celebrities through the ages have discovered, the publicity only enhanced his reputation.

 

                                    ***

 

Present day Sabratha also has an Oncology institute.

 

 

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Green Mountains

eastern-libyagreen-mountains

 

The area around Ras Al-Hillal, 20 km east of Susa, has some of the most dramatic scenery on a coastline I have ever seen.

 

For the full effect, Ras Al-Hillal is best approached from the west. Coming up over the rise, you are confronted with a beautiful arc of bay, with a backdrop of towering moutainds and a canyon-like valley running into the Jebel Akhdar (Green Mountains)

 

Knud Holmboe explains the experience well:

 

It was a marvelous morning, and I have rarely seen anything so beautiful as this mountainous country. Colour was everywhere, from the sky which formed a deep blue arch over my head, to the thousands of shades of green in the woods all around. The ground was thickly strewn with all kinds of flowers, and black and brownish-red butterflies fluttered amont the gaily coloured blooms. Here the rocks,e ven where they were bare, were not grey, but displayed a wealth of color.

 

                                                            Knud Holmboe, Desert Encounter

 

Ras Al-Hillal was, for a time, the second port of Cyrene, after Apollonia, although nothing remains to suggest this.

 

But some friends have told that there are underwater remnants of this Greek times port.Maybe, some day, someone will do some underwater archeology and rediscover them.

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